g. California Current) which transport cold water to the tropics where this is heated and pushed back to the poles by the western streams. Consequently, ocean surface currents help the Sun energy spread from the equator to the poles ((http://science.hq.nasa.gov/oceans/physical/OSC.html).
Swells, breaking surf, tsunami
Swells may be defined as "a long series of ocean waves, generally produced by wind, and lasting after the wind has ceased" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell).They may be generated thousand of miles away from the beach by tropical storms or wind systems. Such a genesis explains their higher stability in direction and frequency, and the major attractiveness that they exert on surfers. Thus, swells are the so called wave trains which display considerable wavelength or period. This is a parameter measuring "the average length of time between each wave in a set" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell).For instance, the first waves in a swell might have 20 to 25 seconds, while the second group which might arrive 2 days later, could have a period of 17 seconds. The wavelength is the natural consequence of the energy invested by the wind into the ocean. A swell's strength to surpass obstacles depends on the Aeolian energy. Therefore, short-period swells, measuring up to 14 seconds, are fragile in front of winds or seas, while long-period swells, measuring over 14 seconds, prove to be more resistant (Collins, 2007).
The swell speed (in miles per hour) may be calculated as a product between the period (in seconds) and 1.75. Thus, at a 10-second period, the speed...
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