Standard garments such as suits, rainwear and jeans, where seasonal fashion changes tended to be minimal, were particularly susceptible to competition" (p. 77).
The early 1980s witnessed a 'retail revolution' which was occasioned by demands for more frequent style changes and garments with a high fashion content. Retail clothing stores such as the Burton Group, Sears, Storehouse and Next tried to lure consumers away from relatively cheap mass-marketed clothes by promoting a new coordinated look combining high fashion with value for money, with an accompanying shift towards 'niche marketing' and 'customer differentiation' (Phizacklea, 1990, p. 15). Not surprisingly, clothing manufacturers have been profoundly affected by these changes, which have generated considerable pressure to organize production more flexibly. As retailers moved away from long standardized runs with an emphasis on 'economies of scale' associated with mass production, they insisted that manufacturers provide improvements in design and quality, shorter lead times, smaller batches and frequent style changes (Rath, p. 77).
Buyer-Seller Relationships Used for Promotional Support in the Clothing Sector.
Fashion retailing is constituted by a distinctive set of interconnecting networks of production, promotion, sales, consumption and regulation. These buyer-seller networks are spatially fragmented and exhibit markedly asymmetrical power relations. The fashion industry is positioned within a nexus that connects design, promotion and display with clothing production and retailing. This nexus is highly differentiated; it works itself out in different ways to produce and sustain multiple readings of the fashion industry, which depend on very different geographies of design, clothing production, promotion and retailing (Crewe, 2003; Entwistle, 2000). The retail clothing sector is markedly segmented and is striated along organizational and quality lines (Power & Scott, 2004).
Networks of creativity and design exhibit distinctive spatial structures, centered on four key cities: Paris, Milan, London and New York. The organizational ecology of networks of creativity and design is complex and conventionally conceived as bi-polar, characterized on the one hand by small, fledgling, independent designers, often recent graduates from fashion institutions who attempt to "go it alone" and on the other hand by large organizations such as LVMH and Prada who wield considerable amounts of market power and control (Power & Scott).
Networks of production in the fashion industry are also segmented and striated. There are two dominant spatial fixes at work here. First, spatial agglomeration as illustrated in the case of garment production clusters in New York City, London's East End and the Sentier district in Paris, for example. All three are important centers of production characterized by small, highly flexible and responsive production units employing poorly paid, frequently immigrant labor (Rath, 2002.
Volatile fashion demands and a marked division of labor encouraged manufacturers to seek proximity to fabric suppliers, cutters and ancillary suppliers. The second production spatial fix is more global in orientation. Global supply chains have been a long-established feature of the fashion industry, with Export Processing Zones (particularly in the Far East and, most recently, China) being particularly important sites of garment manufacture. Despite the labor-cost benefits of such overseas production sites, the rapidly changing fashion cycle and, in particular, the requirements for rapid response and "fast fashion" have made women's wear in particular less prone to spatial relocation (Entwistle, 2000). The third fashion network is that associated with promotion, distribution and dissemination. It comprises cultural intermediaries involved in the selection and promotion of fashion (such as fashion editors, photographers, journalists and the like), who exercise control over the dissemination of fashions through the global media (Power & Scott).
Typically the production of fashion has been thought about in terms of the "trickle down" of styles, from catwalk to high street (from designer to mass-market retailer). In part it is clear that this dynamic is still at work, as is evident through the twice-yearly staging of world fashion weeks showcasing the coming season's styles and concepts. It is at such events that the different geographies of fashion unfold and are connected through the nexus of London, Paris, Milan and New York - spaces for the display, performance and enactment of "fashion." These are highly charged and influential meeting grounds for a number of actors who shape fashion consumption, including designers, the collections themselves, supermodels, media pundits, photographers, magazines and the trade press (Power & Scott).
Park,
Haesun (2002)
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