Such a melding of cultures, of Southern-American and Japanese-American would be unthinkable back in the 1940s, when Japanese-Americans were not regarded as Americans at all, as exemplified in the openly hostile policies of the American government during World War II. Also, the Japanese sushi masters of the past would not trust such a non-Japanese individual. Both the book and the review use the whiteness of Cole as kind of 'exoticism' in and of itself. Cole's Texan origins, and his mundane background, fused with his ability to prepare exotic sushi becomes a kind of symbol of the new face of America. But the book also notes that sushi came to America, not because of Japanese-American's appetite for the foodstuff in America, but because of purveyors' attempts to get rid of a type of fish despised by the Japanese as too oily, tuna. The fish was first sold as sushi in America, rolled up along with other types of fish that came from "the hundreds of pounds of meat left over after the [real, traditional Japanese] sushi [cuts] had been carved away" which gradually whetted the appetite of both the Japanese and the Americans for new and untraditional forms of sushi (Lalli, 2007).
The adaptation of a Japanese cuisine in America, and the altering of Japanese and American tastes for different types of sushi products becomes a test case of cultural diversity, the article suggests. The article suggests that every easy example of diversity is actually the product of economics, of the American class system of the culture...
The article does show that what might easily be seen as an example of tolerance and diversity, namely the availability and love of an 'other' culture's food, does not always mean that greater cultural understanding has been achieved, although it suggests that a love of another culture's cuisine can lead to a love of that culture. This is demonstrated by the Caucasian sushi chef opening himself up to a new culture, first out of curiosity than out of deference and respect.
Of course, this is not the first time this story has been told regarding Asian-Caucasian cultural fusion, as "The Karate Kid" had a similar theme in its depiction of a master teacher/student relationship. Even within the article certain stereotypes remain, as it notes the sexist Japanese comments of some sushi chefs about female patrons in one bar, just as it pays tribute to wise sushi masters. But ultimately, its de-romanticizing of the coming of sushi to America is an important reminder that merely because someone can buy a product from another nation in America does not mean that object is an authentic 'piece' of that other nation's culture and that tolerance is something that must be worked at, not purchased.
Works Cited
Lalli, Nina. (29 May 2007). "Roll, Sushi, Roll! Sasha Issenberg serves up the raw facts on the global economy of a favorite meal." The Village Voice. Retrieved 16 Sept 2007 at http://www.villagevoice.com/books/0722,lalli,76774,10.html
