CO Chanel
Today, the term "designer" is too often associated with people who churn out clothing lines every season. In this sense, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel stands as a breed apart. Fashion analysts today attribute the birth of modern fashion to Coco Chanel. She is viewed as a woman and an artist ahead of her time. Her clothing influenced not only the way women dress, but the way women define femininity. In this sense, Chanel is very much a part of the modern artistic movement, along with the likes of Pablo Picasso and Jean Cocteau.
This paper examines the many facets of Coco Chanel's artistry. The first part of the paper looks at Chanel as a product of her social environment, discussing the factors that have contributed to the evolution of Chanel's style and clothing designs. The next part then looks at Chanel's designs and choice of fabrics. Chanel never defined herself as a feminist, but she created clothing that freed women from the constricting clothes of the Victorian era.
In this sense, she both reflected and contributed to the growing women's liberation movement.
In the final section, the paper looks at two representative examples of Chanel's enduring designs -- the Chanel suit and the little black dress. It examines how these two articles of clothing have changed the way women dress, both for business and for special occasions.
This paper argues that Chanel contributed not only to the modern artistic movement, but also to the modern women's movement. Through Chanel's artistic creations -- articulated in her fashion, clothing, and perfume -- have allowed women to express their femininity in new, less constricting and more liberating ways.
The early years
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was born on August 19, 1883 in Saumur, a small city in France. Chanel, however, did not have the benefit of growing up with a stable family life. Shortly after Chanel's father abandoned his family, the children were raised by relatives and later, in an orphanage ("Gabrielle Chanel").
It is difficult to reconstruct much of Chanel's early life, largely because Chanel herself told conflicting stories regarding her past. The most widely-accepted story states that Chanel learned dressmaking either from strict aunts or from taking design courses in school. However, biographer Alex Madsen points out that this is fantasy. Instead, Chanel learned dressmaking from an orphanage, under the tutelage of nuns who raised her after her mother's death. She later underwent a standard apprenticeship with a provincial dressmaker (Madsen 28).
Other biographers like Janet Wallach believe that these early years of deprivation fueled many of Chanel's lifelong pursuits. She also capitalized on her combination of physical beauty, creativity and business acumen to gain wealthy boyfriends/patrons, men whom she euphemistically referred to as her "protectors" (Wallach).
From her early start as an apprentice and then later as a milliner, the young Coco would build what would eventually become one of the most influential houses of fashion.
Chanel's route to being a fashion artist and icon took several detours. At age 17, Coco left her seamstress position in Moulins, a job which the sisters of the Aubazine orphanage helped secure for their former charge. Instead, Chanel embarked on a career as a cabaret singer. While singing, Chanel then met Etienne Balsan, a wealthy playboy who financed her move to Paris and her first business -- a hat shop (Sischy). These fashionable hats were Chanel's humble start in the fashion business.
For people who view Coco Chanel as a feminist icon, it is difficult to reconcile the image of independence with Chanel's series of protectors. After Etienne Balsan, Chanel then had an affair with Arthur Capel, who is widely-regarded the love of her life. The wealthy Capel bankrolled Chanel's career further, financing her expansion to clothing. Capel also helped Coco open shops in Paris, as well as the resort towns of Deauville and Biarritz (Sischy).
These personal and financial relationships allowed Coco Chanel to establish her name in the world of fashion. More importantly, financial solvency allowed Chanel more freedom to further challenge prevailing fashion dictates and to create her own vision. These new designs involved not only fresh and original styles, but also the use of innovative material, revolutionizing the way women express themselves through their clothing.
Early innovations (1909-1920)
From the very beginning, Coco Chanel was a maverick who was challenging the dictates of prevailing style. First of all, she became a designer at a time when all other important couturiers were men. Furthermore, Chanel enjoyed many pursuits that were considered "improper" for young ladies at the turn of the 20th century. For example, Coco enjoyed sports like horseback riding and other...
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